It was 1920 and surely you remember the Maryland Ice-Cream Parlour and Confectionary, at 1377 Greene Ave.? Well, chances are, unless you’re in your hundreds and were drinking malteds in your teens, you’re more likely to know the establishment that took over the premises not long after its debut. Opened by Nick Alevisatos, Chez Nick went on to become one of Westmount’s premier businesses, a culinary hotspot where you went to close deals or simply to enjoy reliably good food.

Almost 90 years later, Chez Nick is still a popular destination, but since 1995, its leader is someone who takes it downright personal if you don’t leave with a smile on your face. Truly, many restaurateurs could learn a thing or two from West Island native Robert Callard, 45, whose connection to Nick’s hearkens back to his school days.

“When I was at Concordia University from 1983-1986, studying for my degree in Communications, I worked here to put myself through school, washing dishes, waiting tables, cooking... pretty much everything,” Callard told me. “In 1970, Nick’s son Tommy took over and he and I eventually became business partners. In 1995, I bought the restaurant.”

Callard is a terrific guy, a father of three boys whose love for music sits perched on the rung just below his love for his family. But when it comes to his work ethic, he’s all business. “I have a policy where, if a client is not happy with their meal, they get something you are happy with, no questions asked,” he stated. “And my staff (of 17) has that engrained into their consciousness. Customer satisfaction is the only thing that matters here.”

While Nick’s was known primarily as a deli in the old days, Callard has taken today’s health concerns into mind when planning his menu choices. “We still have very good smoked meat, but I am trying to get away from the deli and adopt a more bistro-style cuisine.” Nick’s has tasty, creatively-crafted salads and sandwiches, though my favourite lunch choice is a scrumptious Portobello mushroom burger, with salad and fries. The restaurant opens at 7 a.m. daily and it is still a major spot for closing business deals at breakfast, a time when Callard sees a lot of “suits” at his tables.

“We pride ourselves on making everything fresh to order... even our salad dressing is made fresh daily,” he said. “The breakfast menu is more varied on weekends, when we have items such as Eggs Benedict and fancy omelettes. “

One rumour that Callard would like to put to eternal rest, though it’s been skulking around for 13 years now, is that payment is via cash only. “It was that way before I took over, but I have accepted credit cards ever since and I am working on getting debit card service installed,” he said. “Doing it any other way is bad business, because no fewer than half of my clientele pay with cards today.”

When it comes to running a business properly, Callard admitted that his propensity for reading business books has reaped tremendous benefits. “I have learned a lot about the methods utilized by the top companies,” he said. His latest recommendation is a book called Good to Great: Why Some Companies Make the Leap... and Others Don’t, which deals with “Level 5” leadership. Time to put the Harry Potter away and read something that wields powerful magic in today’s ultra-challenging business world, as well.

Chez Nick is located near the corner of Greene and Sherbrooke. Their number is 514-935-0946.