Where’s the beef?: MoWest’s new Burger de Ville delivers on all counts

So I was stunned that a local restaurant which has been open since the fall and delivers on all these counts has escaped my notice, but there it is: the shining, sterling, spanking new Burger de Ville (59 Westminster N, where Westminster Hot Dog used to be, tel: 514-564-9902).

Opened by local restaurant veterans, Egyptian-born Moe (Mohammed) Wahba and his son Reda Wahba, Burger de Ville is the real deal, something I can attest to after devouring two of their outstanding meals in the past week. “My dad has been in the restaurant business for 35 years, as a dishwasher, chef and owner, starting with Curly Joe’s Steakhouse in the 1970s,” 32-year old Reda, a new father, told me. “I myself have been in the business since the age of 16, working with my dad, and as a sous-chef at Vargas Steakhouse, at Fire Grill, Le Biftheque and other establishments. Burger de Ville is a blend of the vision we have both developed, as well as a mix between fast food and fine dining. What’s most important is that we will never compromise on quality.”

And that, beyond all the hype you may hear in the weeks and months ahead, is 100 percent truthful. The excellent, thick, mouth-watering burgers (and the biggest complaint from everyone is that you can’t get your mouth around a burger here: you require a crane to stretch it wide open) are made from meat that is fresh, not frozen, and wet aged, for those who know the difference. The outstanding fries, which arrive in a large bowl overflowing with either the regular or spicy variety, are fried in peanut oil and are absolutely non-greasy. And everything here is made in house, from daily soups that ooze creative preparation and scrumptious taste, to poutine ladled generously with delicious gravy made here using veal stock, to jalapeno peppers marinated in house. Delicious cookies from their other neighbourhood business, Cafe 92° (6703 Sherbrooke W., corner Montclair), and delicious pie, is also sold here, but make no mistake about it, this place is all about the beef.

The burger prices are outstanding, considering the high quality. A regular hamburger is $4, $4.50 with cheese and $5 with cheese and bacon. For just $6, you have a choice of three gourmet burgers: Le Noir et Bleu (blue cheese, pepper mayo, caramelized onions), Le Saint Paulin (St. Paulin cheese, spicy mayo... an appropriate time for Quebecers to enjoy a saintly menu item) and Le Mediterranean (goat cheese, grilled vegetables, black pepper mayo, with an option to substitute Portobello mushroom). For students, the Wahbas offer incredible value during school days - a regular burger, fries and drink for only $6!

They also make excellent salads, including a superb Caesar, and chilli.

I have to say I am very proud to be among the first in media to tell you about Burger de Ville. I can’t wait to go back. You can e-mail them at burgerdeville@live.ca, especially if you want to discuss possible partnership opportunities.

Bram’s blog is found at bramsbriefs.blogspot.com